“The Eastern Cape is a place you drive through slowly, whether because of goat herds grazing on the road shoulder, or a pineapple vendor running up to the car, or a hill suddenly peeling away from the horizon, revealing a steep plunge down to a pristine, beachy river mouth.
Mostly, it’s all three, or at least it was throughout our road trip through Frontier Country, that slice of the province stamped by the history of British expansion into the Xhosa heartland and studded with the forts and battles that shaped Grahamstown and nearby towns.
We took two weeks to make the 210km from Cintsa to Grahamstown – not on foot, driving – because the Eastern Cape takes time. It also gives a sense of time.
This is a place where cows walk down to the beach after a day of heavy grazing to sit and look at the sea (locals attribute this to the wild dagga that grows freely on their grazing land).”